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A Captain Cook at aquatic playground

It was Captain James Cook who christened the islands after discovering them on what he thought was a Sunday during the Whit period of Easter, 1770.

But the famous navigator, on his maiden voyage to Australia, had crossed the yet-to-be-conceived international dateline, so it was actually Monday.

But time has not altered the spectacular beauty of the 74 islands in the heart of the Great Barrier Reef and the superb sailing afforded through the Whitsunday Passage.

Since Cook's first voyage, thousands of vessels have navigated the passage through the Whitsundays for a calm and short way north.

The route was so popular that authorities planted coconut palms on some islands to provide energy-rich food for shipwrecked sailors, while sailors let pigs and goats loose to run wild on them.

So, when I was looking for a diverse water adventure, with guaranteed sun and a generous dose of luxury thrown in, the Whitsundays was really the only option. And a week on Hamilton Island, smack bang in the middle of world's biggest aquatic playground, did not disappoint.

After a day exploring the laid-back resort – where cars make way for golf buggies – our marine adventure began.

At 8.45am on Day Two, we were quizzing the attendant at Fantasea Adventure cruise's kiosk at the marina and less than two hours later we were submerged in one of the greatest natural wonders of the world.

Snorkelling or diving the Great Barrier Reef – navigating cavernous coral formations among giant clams, manta rays, turtles and schools of multi-coloured tropical fish – is simply an unforgettable experience.

Day Three called for a completely different aquatic experience.

After a glorious sleep-in at the appropriately named Reef View Hotel, looking on to the turquoise waters of Catseye Bay, we raced in our golf buggy back to the marina in preparation for the adrenalin ride of our lives, courtesy of Hamilton Island Jet Ski Tours.

Despite only having been operating for a matter of weeks, the ride had been given the Hollywood thumbs up, with Mischa Barton nominating it as her favourite activity after a spin around the island.

And soon after chugging out of the harbour I was letting rip, zig-zagging across the open water as my partner clung on behind me, yelping in joy and trepidation.

While you can go as slow or as fast as you like on these tours, I couldn't resist twisting the throttle back to full and revelling in the sensation as we crashed across wave on wave, with the wind and spray in our faces.

One misjudged manoeuvre and we were suddenly treading water 1km from the shore, looking sheepishly back to our jet ski which had thrown us a good 5m through the air.

But if you fall off, as they say, all you can do is get back on, and moments later I was twisting the throttle back again for a second dollop of extreme fun.

While jet skiing is a hoot, sailing is a must in the Whitsundays. So, bright and early on Day Four, our golf cart was back at the marina car park and we were at Sunsail Yacht Charters, preparing for perhaps the best day of all, taking an 11m vessel out to the exquisite Whitehaven Beach. Sunsail has an impressive fleet of 40 yachts, including mono-hulls and catamarans, with every conceivable luxury. But, more importantly for complete novices like us, it also offers crews.

So, with our skipper handling the wheel, ropes and winches, we were able to sit back, soak up the sun and take in the scenery, enjoying an occasional stint at the helm when we felt brave.

Just before lunchtime we turned in towards Whitehaven Beach, on Whitsunday Island, about 15km from Hamilton Island, and the most relaxing view imaginable.

Ahead of us was a 6km stretch of the softest, brilliant white silica sand, framed by rainforest and glistening waters.

Anchored off the beach, our skipper brought out a seafood and meat platter, barbecued prawns, salad and bread for the ultimate picnic.

Then it was into a little tub and to the beach, so we could test whether it really is one of the world's best.

Three blissful hours later, regretfully, we jumped back aboard the yacht for the return journey.

Captain Cook may have made an error in naming the Whitsundays (what should you expect from someone who called Hawaii the Sandwich Islands) but he certainly knew a good sailing spot.

Sunday Herald Sun

Fast Facts

Getting there: Jetstar flies direct to Hamilton Island and has JetSaver Light fares from $169 a person one-way. Virgin Blue also flies from Melbourne to the island. Virgin Blue also operates a daily service (via Brisbane) to Prosperine Airport from about $225 one way.

Stay: The following prices are valid until December 27 and from January 10 to March 31, 2009. All are quoted per room per night twin-share and based on stays of four nights or more. All prices include breakfast. Palm Bungalow, $305 a night; Whitsunday Holiday Apartments, $332; Whitsunday Holiday Apartments, $402; Reef View Hotel from $330; Beach Club, $570. Details at www.hamiltonisland.com.au.

Activities: Yacht charters are available with Sunsail from $430 a day (40 yachts and catamarans to choose from and sailing school and luxury crewed charters available). Call 1800 803 988 toll free or (07) 4946 6937.
For Hamilton Island Jet Ski Tours call 137 333. Fantasea operates daily trips to Hardy Reef from Hamilton Island. Call (07) 4946 5111.


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