We make our way through the food hall, eyes agog at displays of delicate iced cakes and $80 rockmelons and as we walk up the centre aisle, every shop assistant bows to us, a Mexican wave of reverence given to the first customers of the day.

"Now I know how royalty feels," my daughter whispers; but in Japan, this is not unusual treatment, with every service employee, from cab drivers to hotel staff, treating visitors with the utmost respect.

In fact, in this country it's practically impossible to be "lost in translation", with every effort made by locals to understand or be understood, even in the most trying of circumstances.

And believe me, negotiating Tokyo can be daunting for the independent traveller – it's a megalopolis of more than 12 million people, its scale compounded by the fact English is used sparingly in signs, on menus and in spoken language.

Facing the subway map alone is enough to reduce you to a quivering mess of insecurity, while the prospect of finding an ATM that takes foreign cards is a near impossibility.

The basic rule of thumb while travelling in Tokyo, however, is "if in doubt, just ask". Most locals have a basic grasp of English and will make every effort to assist or point you in the right direction, even accompanying you personally to your destination. If there's a more charming and helpful society on this planet, I am yet to discover it – it seems in Japan, politeness is a quality next to godliness.

Once you realise help is always at hand, getting around this massive city becomes far easier. Within days, it all starts to fall into place: the transport system suddenly makes sense and ordering food becomes a breeze once you realise there's nothing wrong with pointing or sign language.

The first step in coming to terms with Tokyo is understanding there's no city centre or central business district as such. Instead, it is a city of neighbourhoods, each a mini-metropolis with its own distinctive flavour and characteristics.

FOR tourists, nearly everything of interest lies on or near the JR Yamanote line, the rail loop that circles central Tokyo. A trip around this line will give you a good orientation of the city.

Start at Tokyo Station, the first point of arrival for many travellers and the stepping stone to the ritzy shopping areas of Ginza and Marunouchi. Continue north to Akihabara, or "geek town", for computer bargains galore, then on to Ueno, home to many of the city's museums. Shinjuku is an entertainment and business district, flanked by youth-oriented Harajuku and Shibuya, then continue travelling south through Shinagawa and back to Tokyo Station.

This loop is particularly handy if you hold a Japan Rail Pass, a tourist card that must be purchased before you enter the country, giving you unlimited access to all JR routes in city or country regions.

But for destinations not on the JR line, such as Roppongi or the Tokyo Disney stop, simply change stations for the interconnecting subway line, purchasing a separate ticket either at the counter or a ticket machine.

A meal at any restaurant in Tokyo is just as much of an adventure. It's not difficult to see what sort of food is served – there are usually pictures on the menu or plastic replicas of meals in the window. Other clues include signs (a shop specialising in crab dishes, for instance, may feature a huge, pincer-waving crustacean out the front) or lighting (restaurants specialising in yakitori, cheap skewers of meat served with beer, are identified by red lanterns).

As you walk in the door, a hearty "irasshaimase!" will inevitably pierce your eardrums – a nasal cry of welcome hollered by everyone from kitchen staff to waiters. And that's just the start of the special treatment; within seconds, you'll be presented with a hot towel, a cup of steaming green tea and a menu.

Whether it's a simple meal of sushi or a do-it-yourself okonomiyaki (delicious Japanese pancakes, cooked on a hotplate in the centre of your table), specific rituals of service elevate dining in Japan to an art form, an experience to be savoured along with the delicious cuisine.

Japanese hotels come in many shapes, sizes and budgets, from large international hotel chains, to curiosities such as "love hotels" (the name says it all) and "capsule hotels" (tiny coffin-like spaces designed for unexpected overnight stays).

Prices are charged per person, not per room. Surprisingly, many hotels – particularly traditional Japanese inns or ryokans where you sleep on futons rolled out on tatami mats.

Sunday Herald Sun

Getting there: Jetstar flies daily between Sydney/Brisbane to Osaka and five times weekly between Cairns and Osaka. Domestic through fares from other cities are available. Economy fares start from $479 (one way all-inclusive) and StarClass $1399 (one way all-inclusive).

Economy fares from Melbourne (connecting Melbourne-Sydney with Qantas) start from $588 one way, all inclusive. To book, call Jetstar Reservations Centre on 131 538 or visit online

Getting around: From Osaka, the Shinkansen, or bullet train, whisks you to Tokyo in hours, providing the most convenient and pleasant means of travel. Best value is a seven-day Japan Rail Pass for $290 (buy before leaving Australia).

Stay: The Mercure Ginza in Tokyo is in the heart of the shopping district of Ginza. This European-style hotel has relatively large rooms, including charming "ladies only" rooms complete with cherry blossom wallpaper and special toiletries. Visit www.accor.com.au

Tip: Most Japanese ATMs do not accept foreign-issued credit cards. Only Citibank branches or post offices have machines that accept MasterCard and Visa.

More: Japan National Tourist Organisation, (02) 9251 3204