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Port Douglas is the perfect indulgence

And how could it not - when this temple offers you indulgence to the nth degree?

For starters, there are whiffs of frangipani and jasmine from lush tropical gardens wafting through our balcony doors at dusk.

A vast topaz lagoon pool glimmers below, fires flaring from eight pillars in its midst; deluxe lobster and steaks stand by for barbecue toss and - glasses of bubbly in hand - we're ensconced in fragrant simmer in our own hot tub/spa on our own private roof terrace.

The decadence offered by Port Douglas' luxury Sea Temple Resort & Spa may only be ours for a brief two days and nights but we're determined to wring every skerrick out of it.

Not that you have to work at it.

Just about all your hopes of a tropical stay are right at hand.

Set on 4.4ha of tropical beachfront, Sea Temple sits on the southern end of Port's famed Four Mile Beach, which yawns out to the reef and Coral Sea.

Sure, it's a long hike or bike into town (though just a five-minute shuttle bus or cab ride) but once you settle in to your studio, apartment or penthouse abode here, you may well not want to leave.

Limo Henry has given us a grand drive up from Cairns airport, stopping for us to snap the coastal views, pointing out local lore - where George the Groper and the croc hang out - and imparting lots of celeb visitor goss. He hands us over to a snappy check-in at the huge open-air foyer, then golf buggy drop-off at our two-bedroom duplex penthouse in the inner circle overlooking the 3000sq m lagoon pool.

Inner or outer circle, Sea Temple offers an array of luxury ring-side stays. The outer ring gives the quieter stay options.

On one flank are the golf view apartments with Balinese-style courtyards, outdoor dining pavilions, plunge pools and garden showers.

On the other flank are the private beach villas - two-storied, threebedroom, two-bathrooms with landscaped gardens, water features, private garden dining and entertainment areas and private pools.

The inner circle is all lagoon poolside or pool overlook, with twobedroom swim-out apartments and two and three-bedroom penthouses with rooftop spa/hot tub, barbecue and dining.

Overall, there's a selection of 194 studios (all with spas and courtyards), two and three-bedroom apartments, three-bedroom villas and penthouse apartments. It's modern chic, Asian-inspired architecture, luxury bedrooms and ensuites, full kitchens, and open-plan living leading out to huge balconies or pool-side decks.

Aside from the lagoon, there's a lap pool with waterfall and a kiddies' shade pool.

For the active there's a fully equipped gym and Four Mile Beach, a minute's stroll from the beach villas along a boardwalk. You can rent cycles to ride the sand flats or bike it into town. Yoga lessons/sessions can be booked in-house.

Golf buffs virtually walk out their doors on to the 18-hole course (ranked in the top six links-style courses in Australia) and throw down an ale at the Country Club 19th.

For decadent sloths like us, it's a complete indulgent massage up on our roof terrace. We go the whole hog, from foot-cleansing ritual to a massage and wrap.

For the less slothful, there's the Day Spa proper, with heated massage tables, and eight treatment rooms, including two vichy rooms, two couples' rooms and special areas for facials, body wraps, manicures and pedicures. Exotic rituals include lime and ginger salt glow, coconut rub and milk ritual wrap, frangipani body nourish wrap, deep muscle and pregnancy massage.

All of this strenuous activity, of course, leads to hunger pangs. Like us, you can order the DIY barbecue packs - Aussie Outback safari; Seafood fiesta; Simply Mediterranean or Family; DIY brekkie packs - chippolatas, bacon, eggs, mushrooms, tomatoes - and picnic hampers.

There's fine dining in the restaurant just off the foyer, lagoon-side; island pool bar cocktails and nosh or 24-hour in-room dining.

There are, of course, day excursions on the doorstep - reef or rainforest and exploration of Port Douglas proper.

For us, those will have to wait for the next visit. This one has just been too packed with blissful indulgence.

The writer was a guest of Tourism Queensland.

Getting there: Fly to Cairns on Qantas, Jetstar or Virgin Blue. Port Douglas is a one-hour drive north from Cairns airport. Take either a bus, rental car or indulge in a limousine.

Stay: Sea Temple Resort & Spa Port Douglas. Studio room from $310; two-bedroom from $450; three-bedroom beachfront villas from $995. Call (07) 4084 3500 or go online.

More: Visit www.queensland holidays.com.au or call 13 88 33.


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